MOLDAVIAN ROADS
The plenitude of the main forms of relief – hills, depressions, depresionary passages of one of the most stretched plateau from Romania; it obviously came as a result of the natural synthesis.
Either one gets into the Moldavian Plateau from the west trough one of the passages that cross the Oriental Carpathians, either comes from south on the well known roads from the Siret Valley or Barlad, the view is all over the same, lively and hospitable; the various hills covered with parts of “dense hunks” …than lands, meadows and vineyards long ways the valleys- cities or villages- rarely spread over the high places.
Those are the picturesque places of the “Country of Moldavia”, like the chronicler says, they inspired the most important genius of the Romanian culture, those are places that have seen a lot of events all over the years during the Romanian history.
Everything taken together, the contrast of the landscapes of Moldavia is not something else but the reflection of the own way of association of the geographical factors, on which content overlapped the results of the people’s activities and these are one of the most imposing in appearance and various in content.
The sum of the richness and the beauty is impressive. Traveling in the North of Moldavia in the part named by the historic, “The Country from the South’s”, the picturesque landscape, the forests, the nature’s monuments, the Spas, the cities, the big villages with the numerous objectives attract day by day, a plentitude of visitors.
In the Moldavian Plateau were declared monuments of the nature the reservation of hay field from Ponoare (Bosanci), the reservation of fallow deer’s (Cetvus dama) from Patrauti, The Dragomirna Lake, the pleasure resort from Adancata and the dendrological park from Ciprian Porumbescu.
The health resort of local interest- Solea and Cacica (where one can find salted waters also) are settled in an enchanting natural spot. If you want to find a halting place or a station to go forward on the stamped roads of Bucovina, there is the Motel (camping, chalets, restaurants) from Ilisesti, the camping from Radaseni and the Draguseni Inn. The Suceava’s Plateau has plenty of historical and artistic vestiges, especially the Baia Village and the towns Siret and Radauti also the city Suceava. There are mentioned in documents like old Capitals of Moldavia, settled right in there place where the mountains meet the hills.
In North Moldavia, the Radauti town is one of the most ancient places in Moldavia, known since the XIV-th century and a keeper in which concerns the historical vestige.
In Bogdana Church (1350), one of the most stale monument from Romania, are buried the first hospodars, the founder of the Moldavian feudal state, Bogdan the 1st. The Church, foundation of Bogdan I is a building on Romanic basics, only with few gothic elements. Although was improved by Alexandru Lapusnenu (who added closed porches) the monument keeps its initial state. The eyebrow made from stone of the doors and of the windows, with broken archways and crossed sticks, also the roof made from shingle with sudden ramps and big eaves, the stones nice carved seated by Stefan cel Mare on the tombs of his ancestors and part of the interior paintings renewable in the XVIth century, are the most interesting elements of this monument.
The ethnographical museum settled close to the Church of Bogdan, includes a rich collection of objects that represent the way of living, the occupations like artistic manifestation of the population from the countryside in the old times. A valuable collection of painted eggs, another of old ceramics, fabrics and folk weld, sculptures on wood complete the exhibits that represent the hunt and the agriculture from North Moldavia.
From Radauti continuing until Marginea (8 Km.), place known first of all as a center of black ceramics, who’s origin reaches until the Bronze Age. The black ceramics polished by stone are made today also at Marginea. It comes from the Geto-Dacians, but its perseverance is due to the resistance of the pots at fire and is a proof of continuity of the native population in this area.
On the road that leads to Vicarul de Jos, the Valley of Suceava following on west and Putna brook on south, we reach at Putna Monastery, foundation and necropolis of Stefan Cel Mare, whom tomb has a canopy made from marble, backed by two columns. Also, here are buried the two wives of the hospodar, Maria Voichita and Maria de Mangop, as well as the next hospodars until Petru Rares. Destroyed by a fire, the monastery was renewable in 1472. The last restoration was made in 1966-1988. From the original construction stays only Turnul Tezaurului (The Tour of the Treasure) – 1481. The nowadays church was remade between 1654-1662 by Vasile Lupu and Gheorghe Stefan. Important artistic and scholarly centre, the monastery was the place where were copied the Putna I and Putna II Chronicles. The monkish museum shelters a rich collection of objects belonging to the hospodar, embroideries with gold fiber, manuscript-parchment, the icon that the hospodar carried during the wars, the cover of tomb of Maria de Mangop.
Sihastria Putnei, hermitage settled at about 3 km of Putna monastery, was built by the big “magistrate” ( minister of internal affaires) Ilie Cantacuzino in the XVIIth century, but abolished by the Austrians in 1764. In 1992 had been reestablished.
The church made by wood from Putna village, is believed to be the foundation of Dragos Voda at Volovat from where was brought here by Stefan cel Mare; the church from the “cave” rupestral settlement connected with the legend of Daniel Sihastru.
Going along the way, we reach to Sucevita monastery, in the village with the same name, settled 18km south-west of Radauti, one of the five most famous monasteries monuments which have the facades covered in frescos from the bottom till the roof. Sucevita is the foundation of Movila family from which more hospodars descend and is part of the category of fortified monasteries, being surrounded by high walls prefigured at edges by tall and powerful tours. The church was built between 1582-1584, painted inside and outside in the next years.
From Sucevita, we pass trough Obcina Mare and Valea Moldovitei
(around 30km) making easier the access to Moldovita monastery. The first monastery built here between 1402-1410 by Alexandru cel Bun collapsed in XVIth century because of a storm. Today’s monastery was build by Petru Rares in 1532. From inside and outside fresco, finished in 1537, we remark the “Constantinople Siege” (south side).
The museum of the monastery contains old books, icons from XVII and XVIII centuries, religious books written on parchment. At April 26, 1975, at Moldovita took place the festivity of awarding of prizes “Marul de aur” ( “Pomme d’or” – “The gold apple”) on 1975 offered by the International Federation of journalists and writers of tourism in Bucovina area for the development and integration in artistic circuit of the treasure of Romanian feudal art, existing on this old and picturesque places.
At “vatra Moldovei”, in the museum with the same name, at honor place, is the precious trophy “Marul de Aur”.
This art monuments as other touristic objectives can be visited all over the year since near, and in the surrounding cities were built comfortable hotels, motels, chalets, restaurants and paver or asphalted roads.
Coming back to the main road, we reach in the center of the city Gura Humorului, climacteric place with a pleasant appearance. A local road climbs to north-east on Humora brook and leads to Manastirea Humorului – Humor monastery (6km) which church is one of the five pieces of art covered by fresco. It was built by the nobleman Toader Bubuiog in 1530 with the help of Petru Rares next to an old church from the first years of leading of Alexandru cel Bun. The church has inside, but also outside the marvelous assembly of its initial painting (1535), being the first from the five churches decorated with fresco also in the exteriors and that preserved.
In the inside of the monastery is the original reredos and four icons dating from Alexandru cel Bun times.
Just at the entrance of Gura Humor, the road ramifies to right, passing the Moldova river in Voronet village in the middle of which is still the church of the old monastery (3km), that was built by Stefan cel Mare in 1488, in moldovian style and decorated in exterior with the traditional plaques of enameled ceramics, and inside with frescos which prove the great art of the moldavian handicraftsman in the realization of the monumental pictures. In 1547, at the initiative of Rosca bishop was added a closed porch, and the sides were covered from the bottom till the roof with wall paintings which provide to the Voronet an inestimable value.
The tower of Suceava, the old fortress for hospodars of Moldavia appears soon after the junction from Bosanci, Suceava – place of legend and history – old city, built by the “musatin” hospodars, with a great amount of touristic objectives of historical and geographic interest. Suceava was the capital of Moldavia starting with the period of Petru Musat until 1566, when Alexandru Lapusneanu moved it to Iasi.
The city had two main fortified points:
Scheia fortress, one of the oldest Moldavian fortresses, collapsed in the first years of the Alexandru cel Bun leading;
Cetatea de scaun – The leader’s fortress, that during three centuries had an important role in the political life of Moldavia. Modified and reinforced by Stefan cel Mare, The Main Fortress resisted to Mahomed the IInd , the conquistador of the Constantinople (1476). During the leading of the Dumitrascu Cantacuzino, from Turkish order, the fortress was worn out and burned. Today the ruins of the fortress have been restored, strengthened and partially remade. In Suceava, the tourist can also visit the History Museum, where he can find in the history section, the vestiges that prove the human presence in the city from the Neolithic times, a variety of precious objects for the knowledge of the previous way of living in the city. The museum has an interesting collection of old ceramics, a collection of handicraft objects, a collection of feudal weapons and a rich numismatic collection.
The Church of the Monastery Saint Gheorghe ( Saint Ioan cel Nou) valuable architectural monument in Moldavian style from the Stefan cel Mare époque, style that stands trough the union of elements taken from the neighbor countries (especially Byzantium Empire). Inside de church is kept the valuable assembly of fresco, painted soon after building, with an amazing portrait of the founder (Bogdan al II lea, Cel orb).
The Mirautilor Church the first residence of the Metropolis of Moldavia, built at the end of the XIV century. In 1898-1903, in its place was rebuilt the actual church which is in great part similar with the old monument;
The Sf. Dumintru Church, founded by Petru Rares between 1534-1535, which keeps inside a great amount from the original paintings, but badly preserved. Next to the church is the tower of the spire built in 1561 by Alexandru Lapusneanu; on the east side of the tower is a nicely sculpted inscription representing the head of the European Bison.
The Sf. Ioan Botezatorul Church built in 1643 by Vasile Lupu.
The Armenian monastery Zamca from the border of the city’s plateau. (XV century).
The dendrological park Sipot – Fortress situated in the south-east of the city.
Dragomirna monastery – at 12 km north of Suceava, in Mitocul Dragomirnei village, was founded by the bishop Anastasie Crimca in 1602, its building being ended by Miron Barnovschi in 1627, who also straightened it with walls and towers of defense. Robbed by Tartarsin 1758, it suffered a series of transformations during the Austrian occupation. In 1961 has been restored, the architectural novelty being given by the sculpture in stone. The mural painting in fresco of the church is preserved only in nave and sanctuary.
The Dragomina monastery contains a rich collection of manuscripts with miniatures, silver ware, sculpted crosses (a ebony cross sculptured and covered in 1542), embroidery, old books ( the Gospel from 1557), a Tetra gospel from 1609 written on parchment and decorated with icons, miniatures and the initials of the monastery founder.
Trough the variety and the beauty of the natural landscapes, trough the variety of historic monuments, the north part of the Moldavia becomes a region of great interest from touristic point of view. Excepting what we reminded before, we shall not forget the monuments of nature such as: the secular hay fields from Bosaci and Frumoasa; the secular oak tree from Cajvana; the secular forest from Slatioara; the peateries from Poiana Stampei.
The tourists that wander trough the area of Oriental Carpats can have as accommodation, chalets situated in picturesque places: Rarau, Deja, Strand – Campulung Moldovenesc, Mestecanis, Zugreni or the camping from Vatra Dornei, Mestecanis, Ilisesti, Adancata, Radaseni, Sucevita.
Therefore, as the archeological vestiges discovered until now prove, the territory of the city Targu Neamt was intensely dwelt ever since the primitive times. As economical centre will asset beginning with the construction of the Neamt Fortress by Petru Musat. At the end of the IV century is one of the main cities of Moldovia. In the next century it becomes an important custom point in cattle trade with Transylvania.
Protected by Neamt Fortress – Cetatea Neamtului and supported by the control it had on the commercial roads which connected the south of Moldavia with Suceava and Transylvania, the town will have a long period of wealth. In the XVIIth century the borough is offered to Neamt monastery.
We enter in the city trough D.N.15A, afterwards we enter Humulesti, the village of the childhood of Creanga (today quarter of the city Tg. Neamt) rich in memories and places that we visit with enthusiasm. On the street that has the name of the great narrator, at no. 72, a monumental gate carved in wood shields the most visited memorial museums of the country: “The house where Ion Creaga was born and spend his childhood” – built in 1830 by his grandfather, Petre Ciobotariu, the small house made of girders is an authentic product of the popular architectures from this area. Restored in the spirit of a rigorous abidance to the original features, it was arranged as a museum in 1951, keeping the atmosphere of simplicity and modesty from the times when Ionica was doing his first steps around the oven. The table, the benches, the wheel, the rush-light with candle and even the tassels that look like they are waiting for the cats to play, every object produces a vibration in our soul recalling the childhood of the one who gifted to our literature his memories under the shape of an inimitable masterpiece. In another room, a unique but instructive documentary exhibit reveals the main moments from the life and activity of the writer. The papers and the original letters, the photos and the numerous editions of his literary production complete the portray of an impressing personality, which identified himself with the people in the middle of whom he descend.
At the edge of a sanctuary of rich trees, the History museum was in 1968 one of the most impressing buildings of the city. From the architectural testimonies that we find here, a special impression produce the Paleolithic fragments, tools and Neolithic painted ceramics from Tarpesti, the characteristic objects of Geto-Dacian civilization and, evidently, divers feudal vestiges found at Cetatea Neamtului.
Citadel of Neamt set in the west of the city on the top of the Plesu hill, was build by Petru I Musat between 1382-1387, being renewed and enlarged by Stefan cel Mare. It faced a lot of sieges (as one of the one of the Mahomed the Iind from 1476, or the one of the Poland from 1691). Destroyed at the order of Turkish at the end of XVII century has been restored between 1963-1970. Today Cetatea Neamtului is again there with its imposing walls, being restored from the plan and appearance it had in the times of Stefan cel Mare.
It strikes trough its suspended bridge, sustained by the high stone pylons, which provides the linking between the main gate of the fortress and a small plateau. Wholly rebuilt, it fills the air of majesty and monumentality of the entire complex, augmenting its beauty and authenticity. Looking as if it was grown there in the rocky body of the Plesu hill, at a height of 100m, the walls of the fortress watch the Ozana valley for over six centuries.
Also from Targu Neamt, following the road to Pipirig and Brosteni, and than another local road that ramifies to the right, we reach to Neamt monastery (10km north-west from Tg Neamt), monastery founded by Petru Musat in XIV century. The big church, restored, was built in 1497 by Stefan cel Mare, a typical and valuable architectural monument in Moldavian style.
From the same road it ramifies another local road to Secu monastery,
founded by the nobleman Nestor Ureche, the father of the chronicler Grigore Ureche.
Sihastrie monastery at 20km of Tg Neamt was founded by Ghedeon, bishop of Husi in 1740. The monastery received from Grigore Ghica “Cartea Domneasca” which conferred some privileges. Burned in 1821 by Turkish, was renewed in 1824. In 1941 was burned again, but today is a beautiful monastery settled in a natural picturesque landscape.
Sihla hermitage, 3km of Sihastrie monastery, was founded in XVIII
century. The church made of wood “Sfantul Ioan Botezatorul” was built in 1813. Near is the Church made of fir, built in 1763 by Ionita Cantacuzino.
Going on the D.N. 15 C to south, at 12km of Tg Neamt, to right, we
enter in the local road which leads us to Agapia monastery which dominated a small climacteric station settle at 450m altitude under the foots of the Magura mountains. Was founded in 1647 by the “minister of war” Gavrila, the brother of Vasile Lupu. Burned by Turkish in 1821, the church was renewed in 1858-1862 and painted by Nicolae Grigorescu. In 1902, another fire destroy the cells, the spire and the steeples, but without consequences for the paintings. Here at Agapia, Nicolae Grigorescu ends in a successful way – when only he turned 20 years old – a productive stage in his artistic creation, realizing a true masterpiece in religious painting in our country.
In the museum of the monastery are old icons, embroideries, carpets and fabrics made in local manufactories, manuscripts and a diversity of religious objects. A special interest presents the icons from Vladeni, the two “panaghioane” from the XVI century, the air sewn with gold fiber at the beginning at the last century, the icon presented by N. Grogorescu at the “contest” from 1858, when the execution of the church’s painting was attributed and the manuscript decorated with miniatures polychromatic, expression of a long, indefatigable scholarly preoccupation.
Following the way trough Filioara, or trough D.N 15 C, we reach to Varatec monastery, which stands in the middle of a true climacteric resort, surrounded from three parts by protective tops, not too high, and covered by coniferous trees and hay fields.
The monastery has been founded in 1785 by the daughter of a priest from Iasi, the nun under the name of Olimpiada.
Nowadays building is from 1808, being surrounded lately by a wall and more cells.
Attacked and robbed during the events from 1821, the monastery met in the next decades a wealthy period, adding to the donations of the Elisabeta Bals and Safta Brancoveanu, the lordships of numerous hermitages and monasteries:
Toplita, Vanatori, Valeni, Almas, Hangu. In 1935, in front of the apse of the sanctuary appeared the bronze statue of Safta Brancoveanu signed by the sculptor Ion Jalea. The inner fresco was executed in 1882, survived to the fire from 1900 and represents an artistic piece of art that produces a powerful impression trough the precision and accuracy of the execution. Although many times was the target of robbery, Varatec monastery still keeps priceless artistic, documentary and historical values available to the public with the help of the museum that is close to the church, in another building.
We find here religious objects, embroideries manufactured with gold fiber and silver, decorated with precious stones, old icons and religious books with metallic lock-ups of a rare beauty. Also the artistic patrimony is completed by a number of original medieval papers, irreplaceable documents, which evoke the social and economic life of Moldavia from XVI-XVIII century.
In the chalets from Varatec often found their inner peace M Eminescu, Al. Vlahuta, Calistrat Hogas, M. Sadoveanu, Ionel Teodoreanu. Near the church from Varatec, built in 1808, replacing the one from 1598 of Eremia Movila, is the tomb of Veronica Micle, the poet that inspired Mihai Eminescu.
The Targu Neamt touristic area, which represents the north part of the district, involves other touristic objectives:
-at 4 km of Tg Neamt in north-west Baile Oglinzi;
-to the western limit of the Timisesti village, can be visited the horses ranch from Dumbrava, famous in all Moldavia.
After we visited the Varatec monastery where we have been thrilled by the amazing landscape and by the beauty of the objectives seen here, we come back to the main road that departs from Tg Neamt, passing trough some villages and we reach to Piatra Neamt. Is one of the cities that you can see as a multicolored postcard from the edge Pietricica (528m) as you can see Iasi from the Culmea Repedea, Brasov from Tampa, Cluj Napoca from Cetatuia and Husi from Dealul Dobrinei. Its strategic settlement is recognized from ancient times. The remains of geto-dacian fortresses from the tops of Batca-Doamnei and Cozla and other archeological elements confirm the long existence of this gift of the nature. The continuity in time is sustained by important proofs – the buildings from the leading of Alexandru cel Bun, Stefan cel mare, Petru Rares emphasize the past of this city. The central part of the city delights the most, from the foot of Pietricica, because of the park, the new buildings from the Valea Cluejdului and the old architectural monuments: Curtea domneasca – the Court of the hospodar, the church Sf Ioan and the tour of the spire – during Stefan cel Mare period, with their original features.
Piatra Neamt is a city full of history, geography, legend and poetry. These places attract trough archeological vestiges and the value of the old architectural monuments, some of them before the written history, which is met in museums and collections. The museum of history from the central part of the city, reorganized in 1947, is known all over the country trough the multitude and the value of its exhibits. In the museum of art one can admire valuable creations of national fame. The museum of natural sciences addresses trough its exhibits to experts but also to the great public, having elements of geology, geography and flora-fauna.
The city Piatra Neamt is a medallion of tourism in the center of Moldavia, from here set out in the so picturesque area between Carpathians and Siret, a multitude of touristic paths:
Valea Bistritei – is individualized as a geographical entity which attracts the various touristic exigencies. All over the years it inspired a whole literature, rich in evoking, that Calistrat Hogas, Alexandru Vlahuta or Mihail Sadoveanu arise it at the level of metamorphic relation. Indeed, from Piatra Neamt to Borca ( Bistrita mountains) at a distance of 100km, the vigorous body of Bistrita with its remaining fed by Tarcau, Bicaz, Bistricioara and another of tens of brooks opens trough the mountains the gates of a wonderful world; wooded heights and cool paths meander trough crags, settlements with historic names that defied the times – this is Valea Bistritei – the Valley of Bistrita, the place where the other times streams, today follow compliantly other ways, through surprising landscapes.
Coming back to the national road, up , at a altitude of 800m, on a wooded height is the white building of the Sanatorium Bisericani Complex – Complexul Sanatorial Bisericani ( for treating the lung problems) here from 1909. The main point of attraction is the historical past and the architectural value of the Bisericani monastery inside of which was organized the sanatorium. The church was build and gifted with the surrounding glades by Stefanita Voda, the nephew of Stefan cel Mare. Under the foot of the woods, Stejari settlement is dominated by the construction of the biggest hydro-electric station from Bistrita, which controls the quantities of water downstream. Gradually, the mountains are getting closer and we pass trough Tarcau, rural settlement with old traditions and important forestry centre and we go ahead to Bicaz on a 4km road cut trough the wood that descends until the shore of Bistrita, having as direction the dam that connects the rocky heights of Gicovanu mountain with Obcinile Horstei, embanking the millenary way of Bistrita. As one gets closer, the presence of this giant becomes overwhelming at its 127m height in which body lay 1.625.000 cubic meters of concrete.
The road passes the Tasca Ticos-Florea village and goes straight to Bicazu Ardelean, large settlement with long tradition villages – an important ethno-folk and touristic centre. At the western edge of Bicazu Ardelean, the national highway enters Bicaz-Chei and after we leave behind a vividly karst phenomenon, Munticelu cave (inside the mountain with the same name) we enter into the amazing world of Cheile Bicazului.
Formed at the north extremity of Hasmas mountains, because of the long action of Bicaz and its affluent, Cheile Bicazului occupies a large surface of more than 10km. The road gets inside a narrow defile, the descending becomes more pronounced and after two turnings we perceive the constructions of the chalet Cheile Bicazului, and further Piatra Bardosului (Piatra Altarului) a limestone tower that dominates the environs. After we pass trough a tunnel carved in rock, we descend the short and quick serpentines that lead to the entrance of Cheile Bicazului follows the water that create this
impressive natural monument, in places of a rare beauty. The walls that arise vertically and on which the alpinists set a lot of “paths” allow in the right part the water of Bicajel to add to the water of Bicaz, and together to roam the most stunning part of the keys, Gatul Iadului. In a glade on the left side, at altitude of 860m, the complex of buildings “Cheile Bicazului” welcomes us. From the halting place “Cheile Bicazului” are only 3km left to
Lacul Rosu (The Red Lake), climacteric resort of Harghita district situated at around 1000m altitude. Here the valley opens and the forests thicken, the touristic places and the shops follow the road, but the villas are spread inside glades in the natural amphitheatre guarded by the limestone cliffs of Suhard and Ghilcos Mountain.
The main interest of the area is represented by Lacul Rosu, the biggest lake, natural dam. Settled at 983m altitude between Ghilcos (1384m), Suhardul Mare (1507) and Suhardelul (1400m) Lacul Rosu has 12,7ha surface and of 10,5m deep.
The lake formed because of the interception of Bicaz, phenomenon that produced in July, 1837, because of a landfall from the north-west part of Ghilcos Mountains, caused by the infiltration of some storm and an earthquake that occurred during that time in Vrancea area. The conifers wood that followed Bicaz was drowned and slowly suffered a carbonization process, and the bodies of the trees, since then denuded, come outside the waters as knurls of 1-2m, assuring a particular appearance.
The special picturesque of the region favored the development of the resort with the same name which has a surface around 2.5km and benefits of a tonic bioclimatic, fresh air, lack of dust, rich in ultraviolet radiation and with a accentuated ionization of the atmosphere, the atmospheric pressure being relatively low. Here can be treated: asthenia neurosis, benign hyperthyroid, debility condition, physical and psychic tiredness, convalescence with good general condition.
Lacul Bicaz – Bicaz Lake (Izvorul Muntelui) is the largest reservoir from the inside rivers. The location of the dam was done upstream at the confluence of the river Izvorul Muntelui with Bistrita in the place where the valley digged in a bulk and tough grindstone bank of Tarcau straiten. 435m long, 120m height, 100m wide at bases and 10m up, at the construction of the dam was used 1,6 millions cubic meters of concrete. Bicaz Lake formed in July the 1st 1960, is 34km long, the wide varies from 200m to 2000m. The maximum deepness reaches -90m, the maximum size of the barrage.
The construction of the reservoir created the backgrounds for
touristic development. Those who remain here for some time can participate to trips in Ceahlau and travels by boat, motorboat, hydro-bike on the lake. Beyond the lake, Ceahlau – the legendary mountain – invite on its summits. At north-west of Ceahlau at 6km from the reservoir, is the
well known Durau village, indicated for asthenia neurosis, physical and psychic tiredness, endocrine and respiratory diseases. The beauty of Durau attracted even from the last century, Vasile Alexandri, Alecu Russo, Barbu Stefanescu – Delavrancea, Alexandru Vlahuta and Mihail Sadoveanu passed trough here.
After leaving the dam across Bicaz, we are committed to the road with sinuous serpentine cut in the left side above the rate of 520 m. We pass the touristic halting place, Cristina, and then besides that of Potoci and after leaving behind the households of Ruginesti, we get into the Buhalnita town, in the middle of which the sparkling towers of the former Buhalnita Monasteries (called Monastery Hangu) reconstructed in 1627 by Miron Barnovschi voivode. Reaching to Hangu we can admire not only the Ocolasele and the Tower of Butu and Ana, but also the lofty cliffs of Toarca and Panaghia, which the old “hospodar” of Moldavia often hidden them in the mist. After we exit Hangu, the road climbs the abrupt mountain from the left of the lake, cuts the forests and goes under frail walls of friable grindstone. Descending to the valley of Schit brook, after a hill, the giant eyebrow of the viaduct from Poiana Teiului and the solitary tower of Piatra Teiului appear.
Poiana Teiului represents the meeting spot of important touristic paths. It is situated at 86km of Vatra Dornei, 46km of Tg Neamt and 43km of Borsec, all this roads crossing areas of great touristic interest.
From the viaduct the road goes to north-east, passes over the Petru Voda hill (900m altitude) trough Pipirig and Vanatori reaching to Tg Neamt and further to Timisesti, where, passing the water of Moldavia surpasses the north-eastern border of Neamt district and enters on the lands of Iasi district, therefore, at home.
We do the first stop in Motca village, where at the shelter of the forest and in a landscape of rare beauty is the “Codrii Pascanilor” motel which depends on the city Pascani. Descending a terrace of the river Siret, we enter Pascani, the second important city from Iasi district as size and economical point of view. Although is new as a city, 1842-1845, still as sources, bondsmen village, its name is connected to the court of nobleman Oanca Pasca, documentary attested in 1453. An important stage in the development of the borough is the construction of the railway in 1869 and the CFR workshop. In 1880 was born here the author of the “Fratii Jderi” and “Baltagul” – Mihail Sadoveanu.
The traveler has in front of his eyes a beautiful view of Siret Valley, covered with an aura of legend and history, as M. Sadoveanu described it in the novel “Venea o moara pe Siret” – inspired from the life of the people who live on this territory.
In this city we can visit:
The house of the nobleman Iordache Cantacuzino Pascanu, built here at the end of the XVII century and renewed various times, being considered one of the richest assembly of monumental sculpture from the civil Moldavian architecture;
Sfintii Voievozi church, built in 1664, with a tower-spire;
From Pascani city, passing the water of Siret we stop at Ruginoasa, where we can visit the Palace of Alexandru Ioan Cuza, built at the beginning of the XIX century in Neo-gothic style, bought and renewed by the leader in 1862; was burned in the Second World War, being restored between 1971-1975 and transformed into museum. In the yard of the palace is the church “Adormirea Maicii Domnului” built in 1813 in Neo-classic style.
At Targu Frumos we can visit Sfanta Paraschiva church, founded by Petru Rares and where Ion Creanga has been ordained deacon.
The archeological dig from the south of Cucuteni (12km of Tg Frumos) from the IV-III millennium BC, the ceramics discovered here, remarkable trough the originality of the tracery and coloring, provided the name of an entire Neolithic culture.
The balneary climacteric resort from Strunga – 9km south-west Targu Frumos
The last stops will be at Podul Iloaiei were we can visit the manor of the familly Cantacuzino-Pascanu from Popest village, built at the beginning of the XVII century and renewed in Neolithic style and the Sfanta Varvara church built in 1776 in neoclassic style, and at Letcani, the Sf. Spiridon church in neoclassic style with round arch founded by Ana and Constantin Bals in 1795.
One cannot say that visiting Moldavia understood the geography, history, ethnography and local folk if he did not see Iasi, the city at the foot of Repedea hill.
We therefore leave the Round church from Letcani, an original and valuable architectural monument and we pass by the imposing enterprise of antibiotics and we follow our way on Pacurari Street to stop in the city of Iasi, a city settled at crossroads and railways. Seen from the top of Repedea (Dealul Paun-407m high) the view of Iasi can hardly resemble with some other place. From here the picture is amazing, large or smaller hills with numerous villages, vineyards, meadows or lands surround the city: Cetatuia, Galata, Miroslava, Bucium, Sorogari, Ciric, Breazu, Aroneanu.
Iasi was populated from ancient times, the documents revealing it from the first centuries of our era. When and how it developed before becoming capital in 1564, under Alexandru Lapusneanu, it is hard to say. But as soon as it became a capital, different leaders underline a series of event trough building edifices that are famous even outside the borders of Romania.

- Trei Ierarhi monastery, built between 1637-1639 by Vasile Lupu, the leader of Moldavia. The initial construction included the tower of the spire, set at the entrance, a surrounding wall and the cells of the monks. On the tower with the clock was carved on stone the arms of Moldavia, the head of a European bison, the moon and the sun in a square, having at the entrance a lion. The outside was caved in stone, with floral and geometric design of Caucasian inspiration and covered in gold. Burned in 1650, 1686, 1808 and 1827, the church was renewed in 1841 when the relics of Saint Paraschiva were brought here. In the pronaos of the church, in the left side are the tombs of the founder and of his family, and in the right side those of Dimitrie Cantemir (brought from Russia in 1935) and Alexandru Ioan Cuza (brought from Ruginoasa in 1947). The gothic hall built in the yard of the monastery is a construction in gothic style, the former residence of Vasile Lupu. At Trei Ierarhi was the first superior school from Romanian countries and the first printing house from Moldova (1642) where was realized, in 1643, the first printing in Romanian from Moldova “Cazamia mitropolitului Varlaam”. Nowadays is a museum of religious medieval art.

- Sfantul Nicolae Domnesc Church – In 1491-1492, Stefan cel Mare built it near the Court, and is the eldest edifice from Iasi. Here all the leaders of Moldavia, from Despot Voda to Alexandru I. Cuza were named.
- The house of the bishop Dosoftei – Construction from the second part of the XVII century where the bishop Dosoftei installed the second printing of Moldavia in 1679. Here he printed Liturghia (1679), Psaltirea denteles (1680) and Viata si petrecerea Sfintilor (1682-1686). Nowadays here is the section of the old literature of the Museum of Romanian literature. Trough the most important exhibits are: a liturgy book printed by Macarie in 1508; The Apostle, the oldest Romanian manuscript, 1559-1560;-The Sermon of the bishop Varlaam (Cazania mitropolitului Varlaam); The psalter in rhyme (Psaltirea in versuri)-1673 of Dosoftei bishop as well as a Gospel from 1682;- a copy of the “Wallachian chronicle” by Ion Niculce. Since 1975 near the Casa Doroftei stands the statue of the great scholar.

- The Episcopal Catholic Church – the Church of mure of the Catholic Church, known also under the name of “Biserica Franciscana” – Franciscan Church, is a baroque construction from the end of the XVII century with the patron Adormirea Maicii Domnului. The church is replacing another church made of wood that burn in 1766. Damaged by the earthquake from 1802 and of the fire from 1827, was reconstructed and enlarged in 1869.
- Piata Unirii – The Union Square – The central square of Iasi, with a
- The Museum of the Union – the palace was built in 1808 on the nowadays Lapusneanu street, architectonic
monument of classic style with two levels and a façade that impresses trough the six atlantes that sustain the Arms of the Union. Important personalities such as M. Kogalniceanu, Vasile Alecsandri, C. Hurmuzachi presented here great speeches. The palace was the residence of Alexandru I.Cuza ( 1859-1862) and of the king Ferdinand I (1917-1918). At 24 of January 1959, with the occasion of the celebration of the Union Centenary, the Museum of the Union opened –place where are kept original documents concerning the revolution from 1848, the actions of the ad-hoc meetings from Iasi and Bucharest, papers, proclamations, laws from the period 1859-1866, objects that belonged to Cuza family, pieces of art signed by Th. Aman, Ion Irimescu, C. Stahi.
- Golia Monastery – Monastery built between 1650-1653 by Vasile Lupu (Moldavia’s leader 1634-1653) on the ruins of the monastery built by Ioan Golia and 1546. Surrounded by powerfull walls and towers of defense, it resemblance with a fortified fortress. In the church are buried some members of the Cantacuzino family. Next to it Cismeaua de la Golia – The fountain from Golia – can be visited.
- Barboi Monastery – built between 1613-1615 by the important minister of justice Ursu Barboi, killed together with his sons by the ruler Stefan Tomsa. Destroyed by fires and earthquakes, it was reconstructed by Ionita Sandu sturza in 1841, the first native ruler, after the Phanariots. Here Ion Creanga was deacon in 1861-1865.
- Frumoasa Monastery – built between 1584-1585 by the minister of war – hatman Balicadin, the family of the noblemen Buzesti, known also under the name of Sfintii Arhangheli Mihail si Gavril.
- Cetatuia Monastery – fortified monastery built on the hill with the same name from the south of Iasi, at the order of Gheorghe Duca ruler between 1667-1672. The monastery contains the church, the tower-spire from the entrance, the ruler’s palace, the gothic salon from the prior, the Turkish bath and the cells. The church with the patron Sfintii Petru si Paul is considered a simplified copy of the Trei Ierarhi Church. It has stone caved squares at windows and doors. The ruler’s house – Casa Domneasca shelters the art collection of the monastery (icons, silver wave and pieces of furniture, manuscripts).
- Galata Monastery – Monastery with the patron Inaltarea Domnului, constructed by Petru Schiopu, on the hill with the same name from the south of Iasi. In the first reign 1574-1579, the ruler constructed the Galata Monastery “from the valley” finished in 1579, that collapsed after short time because of a landfall. After the battle from Bogdanesti (1582) he asked the construction of the church on a higher plateau and in 1584 was finished. Surrounded by walls of stone, with a tower-spire at the main gate, the court sheltered the ruler’s house, the cells, the priory. In the yard was exposed the spire gifted by Petru Shiopu in 1579 to the monastery “from the valley”
- Bojdeuca lui Ion Creanga – the house where Ion Creanga lived from Valea Plangerii, Ticau Street, is connected with the life and the literary activity of the great teller. Here, in the fall of the year 1876, Creanga brought a special guest – Badita Mihai Creanga and he entertained him with sayings and stories, and the poet was laughing and always advice him to write more. At Bojdeuca from Tacau was founded in 1918 the first Memorial Museum, as a homage brought to the two great writers: Ion Creanga and Mihai Eminescu. In 1989 at the centenary of the death of the writer, was constructed another building where is the documentary exhibit. Also, in the yard of Bojdeuca is the granite bust of Ion Creanga, and in front of the crib is the statue of the writer, where Ion Creanga is represented with his face turned to the Bojdeuca, holding the shoulders of two children.

- Copou Garden -the first documents that attest the hunting reservation from Copou date from the leading of Vasile Lupu. In 1883 the garden is laid on the place of the former post office and is surrounded by a stone wall. Mihalache Sturza buys the land and arranges the park in the style of the English reservations. Since then Copou became a place of recreation for the people who live in Iasi. In the middle of the garden is “Obeliscul cu lei” or the Pyramid of the lions. The pedestal of the monument is from only one stone, brought from Scheia quarry. The monument was finished in 1840. The lime from the Copou Garden is a legend, known under the name of “the lime of Eminescu”. In january 1984, near “The lime of Eminescu” opened a museum, a special homage brought to the paragon of Romanian poetry.
– The house Vasile Pogor –built in 1850 by Vasile Pogor is known also under the name of “The house with lightened windows” (because was one of the first houses illuminated with electricity). Here the members from the Junimea Society – who’s publication was “Convorbiri Literare”- were meeting. Today is the center of the Museum of Romanian Literature from Iasi, inaugurated at the 26th of December, 1972.
- The Monument of Mihai Eminescu – staturay group made of bronze,
built in 1929, at Ateneul Popular Toma Cozma, the author being a Czech sculptor. Placed on a massive pedestal, decorated with inscriptions and bas-reliefs, the statue of the poet is supported by the figures of the Philosophy and the Poetry.
- The statue of Stefan cel Mare – in 1856, Teodor Bals sustained the idea of constructing in front of the Court a bronze monument decored with bas-reliefs, to be executed outside the country by a famous artist. The documentation made by Gh. Asachi was send to the French sculptor Emmanuel Fremiet. It was finished in may 1881 and in June, the 5th 1883 was uncovered. After the official speeches followed the parade of military units. Mihai Eminescu assisted at the festivities as well.
Besides of those reminded above, Iasi is embellished by many other statues and monuments such as: – the Ferentz’s Cross from Nicolina, constructed on the place where the Austrians that came in Moldavia in 1712 for defending it , were killed;- the bust of Gavril Musicescu from the garden of the metropolitan church;- the statue of Gh. Asachi;- the statues of Miron Costin and Vasile Alecsandri, near the National Theatre;- the statues of M Kogalniceanu and A.D. Xenopol, both in front of the University; -the busts of Vironica Micle and Octav Bancila from Copou Garden.
Among the museums we remind the Museum of natural history, the oldest museum from Iasi, which presents to the great public a rich collection of fauna, local or exotic, the botanic Garden-flora.
Besides the Bojdeuca from Ticau, various houses remind the life of different personalities of the Romanian culture or the science: the villa of the poet Mihai Codreanu, the house of Otilia Cazimir, the house of G. Toparceanu and of Vasile Alecsandri; the house of M. Kogalniceanu; the house where Emil Racovita born, the house of A.D. Xenopol.
Trough the discovery of mineral waters at Nicolina, Iasi became also a balneary locality, looked for treating the rheumatism, because of the beneficent mud.
At Iasi was founded the first University in the country (1860) and here were the first beginnings of the superior technical education, a long time before the official
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